In the Nordic lands, the solstice is marked by the night of Sankthans
– midsummer is celebrated by a mighty bonfire topped delightfully with a
burning witch. Actually, despite the
visceral European history of burning witches at the stake, the reality is that
the burning figurine is a symbolic gesture of driving away the evil spritis. The Solstice is filled with magical forces of
nature, good and bad. Herbs picked and
remedies made on this night are particularly potent.
The five scoop waffle icecream topped with sugary foam and a
flødeboller was indeed potent… And a perfect accompaniment to a grey and rainy
dusk on a windy beach roasting against a big-ass bonfire.
Super Special with flodeboller |
The summer solstice in the northern part of Jutland,
Denmark, sees barely two hours of twilight between midnight and 2am – the dusk
is exceedingly drawn out after a 10.10pm sunset, and the dawn equally sluggish
towards the 4.34am sunrise. In between the
wet and cloudy days there were a couple of beautiful days to bask in.
The most northerly tip of Denmark is Skagen, terminating
with the mobile sandspit of Grenen.
Skagen is famous as a bottleneck of bird migration, particularly large
proportions of the raptors heading to Norway and Sweden pass through here. Rather better to visit during the equinox
seasons then?
Nevertheless paddling in the shallows where two seas meet were
both Common Seal and a much rarer Grey Seal, of which there are less than 50 in
Danish waters.
at Grenen with one foot in the Skagerrak Sea and the other in the Kattegat Sea |
Without embarrassing her too much – these pales in
comparison to the simple pleasures of spending a precious week with Mia. We had been reluctantly prepared for a long eight
months apart – important work duties occupying her for the northern spring and
summer, only planning to arrive in South Africa in September for the Crowned Eagle
field season. All thanks to Mias
employer who made a very thoughtful gesture as an appreciation of her hard
work this season – this short trip has made the next ten weeks seem not-so-unbearably-long.
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